Modernist cuisine comes to Fitzrovia
Dabbous – named after the chef-proprietor, Ollie Dabbous – looks like a trendy Continental café-bar with its slightly sci-fi industrial interior and more loungey basement bar. But the menu makes you do a double-take. The dishes are elaborate, sophisticated, innovative, tiny, and are created using the latest culinary techniques. At times we didn’t have a clue what we were eating. So we asked, and were told. ‘The thing below the goose is glazed croissant that has been soaked in kuzu, a Japanese starch; the flavour is an infusion of clover, milk and honey’. Oh, of course, right. So we can’t expect to see Ollie Dabbous publishing a ‘Quick and Easy’ cookbook in the near future. But do make time to visit Dabbous: the dishes are as startling as anything Heston Blumenthal created for his Dinner restaurant, and we predict Dabbous will become one of this year’s most talked-about restaurants. Guy Dimond
For info, see Dabbous listings.
