Do Indian ‘small plates’ work? In India it’s tiffin time all the time, but London has been slow to catch on. We’ve seen precedents – Imli, a spin-off from high-end Tamarind, has been doing small plates for years, and places such as Masala Zone and Dishoom allow you to order snack-sized dishes, but the new Cinnamon Soho is quite a surprise if you’re expecting curry house portion sizes. We’re warning you now – order plenty of dishes here if you’re hungry, because everything we tried was delicious, and we were left craving more. Executive chef Vivek Singh, of the Cinnamon Club, has balls. Crab-cake balls, tiny potato bondas, moist beef shami kebab, even tiny scotch quail eggs, all perfectly moist and marble-sized. These were encased in different batters, each served on delectable chutneys; a sensational starter, and one of the best dishes we’ve eaten this year. This dish is proof – as if more were needed – that Indian cooking and European presentation can be a blissful marriage. If tiffin’s your thing, Cinnamon Soho certainly spices up tea-time. Guy Dimond
For info, see Cinnamon Soho listing.