Burger pop-ups in pubs is a combination that clearly works. Meateasy started the trend at the Goldsmiths Tavern, which went on to become Meat Liquor. The next to pop-up was Lucky Chip at the Sebright Arms, which is still in residence. The latest burger pop-up is at the Three Compasses pub in Dalston – a proper East End boozer with stained carpets, dartboards and sports trophies gathering dust on the shelves. More of a Pat Butcher sort of place, you wouldn’t come here expecting a fancy gastropub burger. On offer: four burgers, with chips as the only side dish. A mushy chickpea pattie, strongly flavoured with dill, made up the meat free burger, while the ‘Fatt Ecuadorian’ beef burger was garnished with a slice of avocado and not-so-spicy ‘spicy mayo’. Served in yellow styrophone takeaway boxes, the dish presentation is ironic (or at least, we think it is). To set the scene, chef Matt Bishop – sporting tattooed arms and a Tupac-style bandana – launched Fattburger with a US-style competitive burger-eating competition, to see who can stuff as many down their throats as quickly as possible. Ironic, we think. Guy Dimond
For info, see Fattburger listings.