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We review: Caribbean cuisine at ‘bargain bling’ Bubbas in Tulse Hill

Posted at 1:02 pm, April 21, 2012 in Food & Drink
Bubbas in Tulse Hill

The Victorian Tulse Hill railway station building has been extensively refurbished to create this restaurant. The new look is bargain bling: mirrors, blue LEDs embedded into cushioned walls, cheap-looking wipe-clean tables. With its banal R’n'B soundtrack and the lights turned up bright, it feels like a nightclub just as the cleaners are leaving. But before you swivel on your diamante heel, take note: this is London’s latest destination Caribbean restaurant. Chef Anthony Cumberbatch has worked in some of London’s best-known restaurants, and has also run a few you’re less likely to have heard of. Cumberbatch’s approach to modernising a simple, home-style, islands cuisine is a good one. He hasn’t messed with the good cooking at the core of classic dishes, but has tried to give them more visual appeal, using 1990s style dish presentation. It’ll either get you fired up – or send you off the rails…

For our full review, see Bubbas’ listing

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