The concrete island of Old Street roundabout doesn’t have many noteworthy dining destinations, which makes even a decent pizzeria worthy of special note. Only a few metres from tube exit five (City Road south, west side), it’s no surprise Meter is drawing in the pre-clubbing crowd with its Neapolitan pizza. The menu reflects chef Valentino Fontana’s Neapolitan roots: from pizzelle pomodore (deep-fried discs of pizza dough) and crocchette (crispy croquettes dotted with ham and a molten smoky scamorza cheese centre), to classics such as melanzane parmigiana (melting aubergines in a relatively bland tomato sauce) and showstopping pizzas, with Neapolitan toppings. The pizza was a winner: slow-risen sourdough, crusty on the outside but chewy at the same time – these are the textures that a proper Neapolitan pizza should have. Anne Faber
For info, see Meter listing.