‘Modern American Steak House’ – a Danish-run steakhouse in London, set in a 1930s themed dining room. Hmm, could this be a misnomer perhaps? Despite the odd choice of name, this smart, new Piccadilly restaurant seems to know how to handle its meat with well-hung beef from many different parts of the world, including wallet-punishing imported wagyu. The benchmark for beef in London has been set pretty high these days thanks to the quality cuts of British cow that the Hawksmoor restaurants offer. With their latest branch just round the corner, how did MASH measure up? Celia Plender
Read our Mash review.