The Book of Leviticus – the third book of the Hebrew bible – is very particular about what the followers of Yahweh may and may not eat. Making sense of the kosher food laws has led theologians and anthropologists on a merry dance for more than two millennia, but the result in contemporary London is that many people of Jewish heritage still observe the most basic rules: no pork, and no mixing of dairy and meat at the same meals. Temple Fortune, north of Golders Green station, is a centre for both the Orthodox Jewish minority and a wider liberal community. Joseph’s caters for the latter with both an excellent bookstore – and this new next-door restaurant. Both have a casual heimishe (homely) vibe, while the restaurant serves fish and dairy dishes of surprising sophistication. Guy Dimond
Read our review of Cafe Also.