It’s been a strange year for the folks at John Salt. The Islington restaurant and bar (on the site formerly home to Keston Lodge) got off to a good start, with acclaimed chef Ben Spalding taking up the first of a series of ‘tenancies’. But in spite of rave reviews, all was not well behind closed doors, with the bookings system falling into disarray and Spalding abruptly leaving only two months into his six-month gig. Happily, they’d already been in talks with Neil Rankin (formerly of Pitt Cue Co) about a possible collaboration, so he was able to swoop in and save the day. And a good thing too: the dishes, rooted both in his classical training and more recent smokehouse experience, are quite brilliant. Tania Ballantine
Read our review of John Salt.