Never trust a skinhead hairdresser. Or a skinny baker. What you want is someone that fully embraces what they do, even if it means dyeing their hair pink or getting a bit chubby after too many cupcakes. Step forward meat master and ‘rotund’ chef (their own words) Will Dee, aka the Fat Butcher. Having honed his skills at St John and the Canton Arms, he’s now cooking at Kentish Town gastropub the Grafton, which showcases simple, ingredient-led pub fare on a frequently changing menu that might feature cuts of meat sold by weight, juicy sausages, pies, potted pork and more.
Find out what our reviewer made of The Fat Butcher at the Grafton