Eating out in Mayfair can feel like the last days of the dinosaurs, just before their extinction. The prices are as high as a hunting trip to Jurassic Park, and the menus are often fossilised in an earlier era. Not so at the inappositely named Rextail, which is the latest London restaurant from Russian restaurateur Arkady Novikov (of the patchy and very expensive Novikov restaurant, also in Mayfair). This time Novikov’s cracked it, with a venue that’s on trend – in an international jet set sort of way. The service is enthusiastic, and there’s lots of it; the menu concentrates on grilled meats, with some steaks – but not all – at prices best reserved for oligarchs. Choose carefully though, and you might be rewarded with a moist, rich-flavoured burger; or slow-braised beef short ribs, meltingly tender and served with bone marrow. With slick service, a good bar and an intriguing soundtrack, Rextail’s too good to leave to the rich. Guy Dimond.
Read our full review of Rextail now.