Pigeon with warm grains and chicory at Chiltern Firehouse
Time Out’s Food & Drink editor Guy Dimond picks out some of the best things he and his team of reviewers consumed this month…
It’s a standard pub or dinner party conversation when people find out that my job involves being a restaurant critic. The first question is ‘Why aren’t you fat?’ And the second question is, ‘Do they know you’re coming?’ The answer to the first is: you’re very kind, but don’t look too closely; and to the second, never. This was brought into sharp focus by my attempts to review Chiltern Firehouse. Bookings could only be made by email to the reservations desk; they responded (to one of my email alter egos) saying they were fully booked until the end of time. So I tried a walk-in – the practice of showing up early, looking filthy rich, with a glamorous dining companion. This almost always works. But it was only on the third attempt that I got lucky, as the room was full of the filthy rich with their glamorous riding companions. For once, it was almost worth three attempts. But I leave it to your own judgement if you’re prepared to go to that trouble yourself just to have dinner.
Burrata with agretti and chilli at Polpetto
Celia Plender reviewed Polpetto, as she’s our resident Italian expert – and also one of the very few critics not recognised by the eagle-eyed Russell Norman. Not all of restaurateur Norman’s recent restaurants have wowed us, but chef Florence Knight seems to be on form at the moment.
Beef fillet with stuffed gnocchi at London House.
A different sort of treat, but a treat nonetheless, was London House in Battersea. The latest Gordon Ramsay Holdings restaurant also has a very talented chef at the helm, Anna Haugh-Kelly, who is surely one of the best in Ramsay’s current stable.
A slice of the tiramisu pizza at the Mayfair Pizza Company
Of course, not every dish we encounters is a delight. Our Pippa’s Tip Award for this month’s most ill-conceived and gimmicky dish goes to the Mayfair Pizza Company, who have created a dish the world doesn’t need – pizza topped with tiramisu dessert. As if that wasn’t bad enough, they also had one topped with fresh strawberries, basil and white chocolate (see below). Our critics go there so that you don’t have to.
Strawberry-topped pizza at the Mayfair Pizza Company
Find more tasty dishes at London’s best restaurants.