French restaurant L’Escargot has been a Soho landmark since 1927, and has had its ups and down over the years. But in February 2014 L’Escargot changed hands, and is now run by Laurence Isaacson (a founder of Chez Gérard) and Brian Clivaz (of Home House and Langan’s Brasserie), who are currently refurbishing the upper floors. Meanwhile, the new head chef is Oliver Lesnik, who at one time worked at The Connaught under chef Michel Bourdin. Bourdin was famous for his century-old Escoffier-style, properly old-fashioned French dishes – for a while, his restaurant was the one of few left in London still serving meats preserved in aspic. But is L’Escargot also preserved in aspic? Guy Dimond
Read our review of L’Escargot to find out what changes have been made in the first month.