Chef Ollie Dabbous opened his first Fitzrovia restaurant quietly in January 2012. It didn’t look like much – a former cyber café, with staff wearing jeans and sneakers – but his modernist cooking was a game-changer, immediately placing it among London’s restaurant elite. Time Out published a rare five-star review; the phones didn’t stop ringing, and within days the restaurant was booked months ahead. It’s still one of the hardest restaurants in London to get in to. Ollie Dabbous’ second restaurant was therefore much anticipated, and it’s a big surprise for anyone expecting more fine dining. Instead, he and his team have created an affordable casual dining restaurant that’s no-booking, with a mix of British and US-style comfort food. But how does Barnyard rate in comparison to his first restaurant? Guy Dimond
Read our review of Barnyard now.