If you visit food markets regularly, you might have already spotted Madame Gautier: not a real Madame, but a traiteur serving hot French dishes to take away. Dishes are prepared off-site in professional kitchens, then transported to the street stalls. Mme Gautier’s stalls appear at markets from Clapham to Swiss Cottage, Marylebone to Queen’s Park – see their website for all the locations and times. Confit beef, smoked confit pork, chicken provençal, smoked bacon and sausage truffade, or seafood paella all cost around £5 to £8 per large portion, with either rice or bread. Proper bourgeois French cooking, then, for la grande bouffe. Guy Dimond
Read our review of Madame Gautier.