Russell Norman – ‘The Restaurant Man’ of the recent BBC Two series – doesn’t always have the magic touch. His Ape & Bird gastropub in Cambridge Circus opened to a slow clap of approval back in December 2013; after we visited it three times, our critics awarded it a mere two stars out of five. A new chef was hired to buck things up a few months later. But in July Ape & Bird closed, was repainted outside, given a spring clean inside and had a pizza oven installed. The British menu has been abandoned in favour of a tried and tested Polpo approach, with pizza. But how is it now?