Oh no! It’s happened again, another old favourite disappearing. First Food for Thought announced that rising rents were forcing it to shut its doors in June after serving great-value vegetarian food in Covent Garden for over 40 years. Then another all-veg stalwart, Berwick Street’s Beatroot, said that it too was shutting down – a casualty of plans to build a desperately needed luxury hotel on the historic market street. And now we’ve lost another slice of Old Soho, the dearly beloved Malletti pizza joint on Noel Street. Its place has been taken by a toasted sandwich shop. We’re not sure if we could bear to see to the sacred site – with its friendly proprietors, wonderful pizza al taglio, and policy of NO MOBILES ALLOWED – occupied by someone else. The Clerkenwell branch remains, but it was the Soho venue that made us thrill. Okay, okay – things change. But that doesn’t make us regret these three losses any the less.
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