When civilisations or cultures peak then fall into decadence and decline, good taste and judgement are often the first victims: just think of dictators’ palaces, the last days of disco, footballers’ hairstyles, or Jeremy Clarkson’s taste in cars. And so it is with restaurant dishes. Fans of the wonderful Twitter feed We Want Plates will already be familiar with the many crimes against food perpetrated by sensation-seeking restaurants who serve food on roof tiles, on bits of wood, in jam jars, in enamel pie tins, in little tin buckets and worse.
But equally alarming is that some seriously good London restaurants at the top of their game seem to think that providing food in unsuitable containers is a good idea. The otherwise wonderful Taberna do Mercado is currently cooking wonderful seafood with obvious care… then serving it in sardine-style tins that make it look worth all of, oh, a couple of Euros. We thought this was an aberration, until a week later we ate at the new José Pizarro restaurant in the City and found wonderful sardines cooked in oil… then served in a sardine tin. Where is this going? Dinner brought to the table in supermarket trolleys? Food microwaved at the table? Stop this madness now.
By Guy Dimond
Take a look at the 100 best restaurants in London.